Lord Howe Island




Lord Howe Island in Australian English phonology is an irregularly crescent-shaped volcanic remnant in the southwest Pacific Ocean. Lying in the Tasman Sea between Australia and New Zealand the island is 600 kilometres (370 mi) directly east of mainland Port Macquarie, 702 kilometres (436 mi) northeast of Sydney, and about 900 kilometres (560 mi) from Norfolk Island to its northeast.

The island is about 11 km long and between 2.8 km and 0.6 km wide with an area of 16.56 km2. Along the west coast there is a semi-enclosed sheltered coral reef lagoon with white sand, the most accessible of the island's eleven beaches. Both the north and south sections of the island are high ground of relatively untouched forest, in the south comprising two volcanic mountains, Mount Lidgbird (777 metres (2,549 ft)) and Mount Gower which, rising to (875 m (2,871 ft)), is the highest point on the island. In the north, where most of the population live, high points are Malabar (209 metres (686 ft)) and Mount Eliza (147 metres (482 ft)). Between these two uplands is an area of cleared lowland with some farming, the airstrip, and housing.

The Lord Howe Island Group of islands comprises 28 islands, islets and rocks. Apart from Lord Howe Island itself the most notable of these is the volcanic and uninhabited Balls Pyramid about 23 km to the south-east, which is sheer, pointed, bird-colonised and (551 metres (1,808 ft)) high. To the north there is the Admiralty Group, a cluster of seven small uninhabited islands. Just off the east coast is Mutton Bird Island, and in the lagoon is Blackburn (Rabbit) Island.

The Lord Howe Island Group is a New South Wales dependency that is administered by the Lord Howe Island Board. The Board reports directly to the New South Wales Minister for Climate Change, Environment and Water, and is responsible for the care, control and management of the island. Its duties include: the protection of World Heritage values; control of development; administration of Crown Land, including the island’s protected areas; provision of community services and infrastructure; delivery of sustainable tourism. The Lord Howe Island Act of 1981 established a "Permanent Park Preserve" (covering approximately 70 per cent of the island). This placed the island under the NSW Planning and Environment Act and it included a Plan of Management for the future sustainable development of the island.

The island's outstanding natural history was recognised in 1982 when the Lord Howe Island Group was recorded by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site of global significance. Most of the island is virtually untouched forest on rugged terrain with many of the plants and animals found nowhere else in the world. Among its many natural attractions are the diversity and exceptional natural beauty of its landscapes, the wide variety of upper mantle and oceanic basalts, the world's southernmost barrier coral reef, fourteen different nesting seabirds, large numbers of rare and endemic species of plants and animals, and its rich historical and cultural heritage.Offshore environmental values are also recognised in the Lord Howe Island Marine Park; it consists of a New South Wales State Marine Park managed by the Marine Parks Authority of New South Wales in the waters out to 3 nautical miles around the island and including Ball's Pyramid; it also includes a Commonwealth Marine Park extending from 3 to 12 nautical miles out and managed by the Commonwealth Department of the Environment and Heritage. In total the Marine Park covers about 3005 km2.

The island's standard time zone is UTC+10:30. During daylight saving time this shifts forward by only half an hour to UTC+11. The currency is the Australian dollar. Commuter airlines are linked to Sydney, Brisbane, Port Macquarie and Norfolk Island. There are no snakes, no venomous or stinging insects, animals or plants, and no daytime sharks off the beaches. Islanders use tank water in domestic residences and this is supplemented by bore water that is used for showers and washing.
                                                                
                                                                 

                                                                       
History


The first reported European sighting of Lord Howe Island was on 17 February 1788 when Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball, commander of the Armed Tender HMS Supply (the oldest and smallest of the First Fleet ships) was on its way from Botany Bay with a cargo of 15 convicts (9 male, 6 female) to found a penal settlement on Norfolk Island. On the return journey of 13 March 1788 Ball observed Balls Pyramid and sent a party ashore on Lord Howe Island to claim it as a British possession. Numerous turtles and tame birds were captured and returned to Sydney. The island was uninhabited, and unknown to Polynesian peoples of the South Pacific. Mount Lidgbird and Balls Pyramid Ball named after himself and the main island after Richard Howe, First Earl Howe, who was First Lord of the Admiralty at the time.


Many names on the island date from this time, and also from May of the same year when the island was visited by four ships of the First Fleet, HMS Supply, HMS Charlotte, HMS Lady Penrhyn and HMS Scarborough when much of the plant and animal life was first recorded in the journals and diaries of visitors like David Blackburn, Master of the Supply. Watercolour sketches of native birds including the Lord Howe Woodhen (Gallirallus sylvestris), White Gallinule (Porphyrio albus), and Lord Howe Pigeon (Columba vitiensis godmanae), were made by artists including George Raper and John Hunter. As the latter two birds were soon hunted to extinction these paintings are their only remaining pictorial record.


Over the next three years the Supply returned to the island several times in search of turtles and the island was also visited by ships of the Second and Third Fleets. Between 1789 and 1791 the Pacific whale industry was born with British and American whaling ships chasing Sperm Whales along the equator to the Gilbert and Ellice archipelago, then south into Australian and New Zealand waters. The American fleet numbered 675 ships and Lord Howe was located in a region known as the 'Middle Ground' noted for Sperm Whales (Physeter macrocephalus) and Southern Right Whales (Eubalaena australis).

The island was subsequently visited by many government and whaling ships sailing between New South Wales and Norfolk Island and across the Pacific, including many from the American whaling fleet, so its reputation as a provisioning port preceded settlement, some ships leaving goats and pigs on the island as food for future visitors. Between July and October 1791 the Third Fleet ships arrived at Sydney and within days the deckwork was being reconstructed for a future in the lucrative whaling industry. Whale oil was to become New Holland's (Australia) most profitable export until the 1830s, and it was the whaling industry that shaped Lord Howe Island's early history.

1834–1841 First settlers
 

Permanent settlement on Lord Howe was established in June 1834 when the British whaling barque Caroline, sailing from New Zealand and commanded by Captain John Blinkenthorpe, landed at what is now known as Blinky Beach. They left three men, George Ashdown, James Bishop and (unknown) Chapman, who were employed by a Sydney whaling firm to establish a supply station. The men were initially to provide meat by fishing and by raising pigs and goats from feral stock. They landed with (or acquired from a visiting ship) their Maori wives and two Maori boys. Huts were built in an area now known as Old Settlement which had a supply of fresh water, and a garden was established west of Blinky Beach.


This was a cashless society; the settlers bartered their stores of water, wood, vegetables, meat, fish and bird feathers for clothes, tea, sugar, tools, tobacco and other commodities not available on the island — but it was the whalers’ valuation that had to be accepted. These first settlers eventually left the island when they were bought out for £350 in September 1841 by businessmen Owen Poole and Richard Dawson (later joined by John Foulis) whose employees and others now settled on the island.

1842–1860 Trading station


The new business was advertised and ships now trading between Sydney and the New Hebrides (Vanuatu) would also put in to the island. Rover's Bride, a small cutter, became the first regular trading vessel. Between 1839 and 1859 between five and twelve ships made landfall each year, occasionally closer to 20 with seven or eight at a time laying off the reef. In 1842 and 1844 the first children were born on the island. Then in 1847 the three men, bitter at failing to obtain a land lease from the New South Wales Government, abandoned the settlement although three of their employees remained.One family, the Andrews, after finding some onions on the beach in 1848, cultivated them as the 'Lord Howe Red Onion' which was popular in the southern hemisphere for about 30 years until the crop was attacked by smut disease.


In 1849 there were just 11 people living on the island but it was not long before the island farms expanded. In the 1850s vessels avoided the mainland as crews would abandon ship for the goldfields; as a consequence the island trade increased, peaking between 1855 an 1857. By 1851 about 16 people were living on the island. Between 1839 and 1859 between five and twelve ships made landfall per year (occasionally closer to 20) with seven or eight at a time laying off the reef. Vegetable crops now included potatoes, carrots, maize, pumpkin, taro, watermelon — even grapes, passionfruit and coffee. Between 1851 and 1853 there were several aborted proposals by the NSW Government to establish a penal settlement on the island.


From 1851 to 1854 Henry Denham captain of HMS Herald, which was on a scientific expedition to the southwest Pacific (1852-1856), completed the island's first hydrographic survey. On board were three Scottish biologists, William Milne (a gardener-botanist from the Edinburgh Botanic Garden), John Macgillivray (naturalist) who collected fish and plant specimens, and Assistant Surgeon and zoologist Denis Macdonald. Together these men established much basic information on the geology, flora and fauna of the island.


In about 1853 a further three settlers arrived on the American whaling barque Belle, captained by Ichabod Handy. As well as George Campbell (who died in 1856) and Jack Brian (who left the island in 1854), the third, Nathan Thompson, brought three women from the Gilbert Islands, Botanga, Bogoroo and a girl named Bogue. Thompson was the first resident to build a substantial house in the 1860s from mainland cedar washed up on the beach. When his first wife Botanga died he then married Bogue. Most of the residents with island ancestors have blood relations or are connected by marriage to Thompson and his wife Bogue.

1861–1890 New directions


From the early 1860s whaling declined rapidly with the increasing use of petroleum, the onset of the Californian goldrush, and the American Civil War — with unfortunate consequences for the island. From 1860 to 1872 forty three ships collected provisions but from 1873 to 1887 there were less than a dozen. To explore alternative means of income Thompson, in 1867, purchased the Sylph which was the first local vessel to trade with Sydney (mainly pigs and onions). It anchored in deep water at what is now Sylph’s Hole off Old Settlement Beach, but was eventually tragically lost at sea in 1873 which added to the woes of the island at this time.


In 1869 the island was visited by a magistrate P. Cloete aboard the Thetis investigating a possible murder. He was accompanied by Charles Moore, Director of the Botanic Gardens, Sydney and his assistant, William Carron who forwarded plant specimens to Ferdinand Mueller at the botanic gardens in Melbourne who, by 1875, had catalogued and published 195 species. Also on the ship was William Fitzgerald a surveyor and Mr Masters from the Museum. Together they surveyed the island with the findings published in 1870 when the population was listed as 35 people, their 13 houses built of split palm battens thatched on the roof and sides with palm leaves. At about this time there began a downturn of trade with the demise of the whaling industry and sometimes six or twelve months passed without a vessel calling. With the provisions rotting in the storehouses the older families lost interest in market gardening.


From 1860 to 1872 forty-three ships had collected provisions, but from 1873 to 1887 there were fewer than a dozen. This prompted some activity from the mainland. A 1876 a government report on the island was submitted by surveyor William Fitzgerald based on a visit in the same year. He suggested that coffee be grown but the kentia palm was already catching world attention. In 1878 the island was declared a Forest Reserve and Captain Richard Armstrong became the first resident government administrator. He encouraged schools, tree-planting and the palm trade, dynamited the north passage to the lagoon, and built roads but, having managed to upset the residents, parliamentarian John Wilson was sent from the mainland in April 1882 to investigate the situation.


With Bowie was a team of scientists that included H. Wilkinson from the Mines Department, W. Condor from the Survey Department, J. Duff from the Sydney Botanical Gardens and A. Morton from the Australian Museum. J. Sharkey from the Government Printing Office took the earliest known photographs of the Island and its residents. A full account of the island appeared in the report from this visit published as 'Lord Howe Island 1882'; it also recommended that Armstrong be replaced. Meanwhile the population had increased considerably and included 29 children; the report recommended that a schoolmaster be appointed. This study sealed a lasting relationship with three scientific organisations, the Australian Museum, Sydney Royal Botanic Gardens and Kew Royal Botanic Gardens.

1890–present


In 1883 the company Burns Philp started a regular shipping service and the number of tourists gradually increased until in 1932 with the regular tourist run of the SS Morinda tourist became the second source of external income after palm sales to Europe.Morinda was replaced by Makimbo in 1932 followed by many other vessels until the present-day fortnightly Island Trader service from Port Macquarie.


The first plane to land at the island was in 1931 when Francis Chichester force-landed in the lagoon in a Gypsy Moth converted into a seaplane. Here it was daaged in a storm but mended with the assistance of islanders and leaving successfully 9 weeks later. After World War, in 1947, tourists arrived on Catalina and then Sandringham flying boats operating out of Rose Bay, Sydney, and landing on the lagoon, the journey taking about 3.5 hrs. These seaplanes were replaced by twin-engined aircraft (in 2011 Dash 8 turbo-props) when the Lord Howe Island Airport was completed in 1974. In 2002, the Royal Navy destroyer HMS Nottingham struck Wolf Rock, a reef at Lord Howe Island, and almost sank.In recent times tourism has increased and the government of New South Wales has been increasingly involved with issues of conservation.


Official control of Lord Howe Island lay initially with the British Crown and subsequently the New South Wales Parliament although islanders have always been, in effect, self-governing. In 1878 Richard Armstrong was appointed administrator when the NSW Parliament declared the island a Forest Reserve. But as a result of ill feeling and an enquiry he was eventually removed from office on 31 May 1882, although he returned to the island later that year to view the transit of Venus (from present-day Transit Hill).After his removal the island was administered by four successive magistrates until 1913 when a Sydney-based Board was formed until 1948 when a resident superintendent was appointed. In 1913 the three-man Lord Howe Island Board of Control was established, mostly to regulate the palm seed industry, but also administering the affairs of the island from Sydney until the present Lord Howe Island Board was set up in 1954. The Lord Howe Island Board is a NSW Statutory Authority established under the Lord Howe Island Act, 1953,to administer the island as part of New South Wales, Australia. It reports directly to the New South Wales Minister for Climate Change, Environment and Water, and is responsible for the care, control and management of the island. Its duties include the: protection of World Heritage values; control of development; administration of Crown Land, including the island’s protected area, the Permanent Park Preserve; provision of community services and infrastructure; and delivery of sustainable tourism. In 1981 the Lord Howe Island Amendment Act gave islanders the administrative power of three members on a five-member Board. The Board also manages the Kentia Palm Nursery which, with tourism, provide the island's only sources of external income. Under an Amendment Bill in 2004 the Board now comprises seven members, four of whom are elected from the islander community, thus giving the approximately 350 permanent residents a high level of autonomy. The remaining three members are appointed by the Minister to represent the interests of business, tourism and conservation. The full Board meets on the island every three months while the day-to-day affairs of the island are managed by the Board’s administration, with a permanent staff of about 30 people.


Land tenure has been an issue since first settlement as island residents repeatedly requested freehold title or an absolute gift of cultivated land. Original settlers were squatters. The granting of a 100 acre lease to Richard Armstrong in 1878 drew complaints and a few short-term leases (Permissive Occupancies) were granted. In 1913, with the appointment of a Board of Control, permissive occupancies were revoked and the Board itself given permissive occupancy of the island. Then the Lord Howe Island Act of 1953 Act made all land the property of the Crown. Direct descendants of islanders with permissive occupancies in 1913 were granted perpetual leases on blocks of up to 5 acres for residential purposes. Short-term special leases were granted for larger areas used for agriculture so in 1955 there 55 perpetual leases and 43 special leases granted. The 1981 Amendment to the Act extended political and land rights to all residemts of 10 years or more. There remains an active debate concerning the proportion of residents with tenure and the degree of influence on the Board of resident islanders in relation to long-term planning for visitors, and issues relating to he environment, amenity and global heritage.

Demographics


The resident population is 347 people and the number of tourists is not allowed to exceed 400. Early settlers were European and American whalers and many of their offspring have remained on the island up to more than six generations. Residents are now involved with the Kentia Palm industry, tourism, retail, some fishing and farming. In 1876 it was observed that although there was a suspension of games and labour, there were no religious services. Nowadays, in an area known locally as 'Church Paddock', there are Anglican, Catholic and Adventist churches.

Economy


Trading vegetables, meat, fish and other perishables with visiting ships ceased in the 1870s when the whaling industry collapsed. With such a small population the economy is now extremely simple with external income derived from only two significant sources, the overseas sale of Kentia palm seeds and seedlings, and tourism.
 
Palm industry   


The first exporter of palm seeds was Ned King, a mountain guide for the Fitzgerald surveys of 1869 and 1876, who sent seed to the Sydney Botanic Gardens. Overseas trade began in the 1880s when it was found that one of the four palms endemic to the island, Kentia Palm (Howea forsteriana), which grows naturally in the lowlands, was ideally suited to the fashionable conservatories of the well-to-do in Britain, Europe and America. but the assistance of mainland magistrate Frank Farnell was needed to put the business on a sound commercial footing when in 1906 he became Director of a company including 21 islanders and a Sydney-based seed company. However, the formation of the Lord Howe Island Board of Control was needed in 1913 to resolve outstanding issues.


The native Kentia Palm (known locally as the Thatch Palm as it was used to thatch the houses of the early settlers) is now the most popular decorative palm in the world distributed by the Lord Howe Island Kentia Palm Nursery. The mild climate of the island has evolved a palm which can tolerate low light, a dry atmosphere and low – ideal for indoor conditions. Up to the 1980s the palms were only sold as seed but now only as high quality seedlings. The nursery received Certification in 1997 for its high quality management complying with the requirements of Australian Standard AS/NZS 150 9002.


Seed is gathered from natural forest and plantations, most collectors being descendants of the original settlers. Seed is then germinated in soil-less media and sealed from the atmosphere to prevent contamination. After testing they are picked, washed (bare-rooted), sanitised and certified then packed in sealed in insulated containers for export. They grow both indoors and out and are popular for hotels and motels world-wide. Nursery profits are returned to enhance the island ecosystem. The nursery plans to expand the business to include the Curly Palm and other native plants of special interest.
Tourism: facilities & activities
                                                                         

To relieve pressure on the precious environment only 400 tourists are permitted at any one time in addition to the 357 permanent residents. The island's outstanding beauty is reached by plane from Sydney or Brisbane in less than two hours. The Permanent Park Preserve declared in 1981 and has similar management guidelines to a National Park.

Facilities
                                                                        

With less than 1000 people on the island at any time facilities are minimal but include: a bakery, butcher, general store, liquor store, restaurants, post office, museum and information centre, policeman, an ATM at the bowling club,and a ranger. Stores are shipped to the island fortnightly by the Island Trader from Port Macquarie. There is a small 4-bed hospital and dispensary with a well-labelled botanic garden displaying Lord Howe Island plants in its grounds. There is no need for public transport and diesel-generated power is 240v AC, as on the mainland. The island is beyond the reach of mobile phones and TV but there are public phones and faxes, internet access, the island radio, and a newsletter 'The Signal'. Tourist accommodation ranges from luxury lodges to apartments, villa units. The currency is Australian dollars and there are two banks. There are no camping facilities on the island and remote area camping is not permitted. To protect the fragile and unique environment of Balls Pyramid (which carries the endangered Lord Howe Island phasmid) recreational climbing is prohibited; no pets are allowed without permission from the Board.


Activities


As distances to sites of interest are short, cycling is the main means of transport to the various tourist activities on the island which include: golf (9-hole), lawn bowls, tennis; swimming, snorkelling and Scuba diving in the lagoon (also off Tenth of June Island, a small rocky outcrop in the Admiralty Islets group where a deep plateau drops to 36 metres to reveal extensive gorgonia, and spectacular black corals growing on the vertical walls) as well as fishing (including deep-sea game fishing), yachting, windsurfing, kite surfing, kayaking, paddling, and boat trips including glass-bottom tours of the lagoon; natural history tours, talks, and guided walks; bushwalking along the many tracks, the most challenging and rewarding being the 8-hour guided hike to the top of Mount Gower. There are 11 beaches and hand-feeding the 1 m long Kingfish (Rexea solandri) and large wrasse at Ned's Beach is very popular. Enjoying the near pristine vegetation, bird watching, beachcombing, and reef walking. There are exceptional diving sites, especially at Balls Pyramid 26 km away where there are trenches, caves and volcanic drop offs. Walking tracks cover the island and provide access to scenery and environments, their difficulty graded from 1-10, they include - in the north: Transit Hill Class 3, 2 hours return, 2 km; Clear Place, Class 2, 1–2 hours return; Stevens Reserve, Class 1; North Bay, Class 3, 4 hours return, 4 km; Mt Eliza, Grade 3; Old Gulch, Grade 1, 20 minutes return, 300 m; Malabar Hill and Kims Lookout Class 4-5, 3 hours, or 5 hours return, 7 km and - in the south: Goat House Cave, Class 4, 5 hours return, 6 km; Mount Gower, Class 5, 8 hours return, 14 km; Rocky Run and Boat Harbour, Class 3; Intermediate Hill, Class 2, 45 minutes return, 1 km; Little Island, Class 1, 40 minutes return, 3 km. Recreational climbers must obtain permission from the Lord Howe Island Board.

Geology


Lord Howe Island is the highly eroded remains of a 7 million-year-old shield volcano, the product of eruptions that lasted for about a half-million years. It is one of a chain of islands that occur on the western rim of an undersea shelf, the Lord Howe Rise, which is 3000 km long and 300 km wide extending from New Zealand to the west of New Caledonia and consisting of continental rocks that separated from the Australian plate 60 to 80 million years ago to form a new crust in the deep Tasman Basin. The shelf is also known as Zealandia, a microcontinent nearly half the size of Australia that gradually submerged after breaking away from the Gondwanan supercontinent. The Lord Howe seamount chain is defined by coral-capped guyots stretching to the north of the island for 1000 km (600 mi) and including the Middleton 220 kilometres (140 mi) and Elizabeth (160 kilometres (99 mi) away) reefs of the Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs Marine National Park Reserve. This chain of nine volcanic peaks was probably produced by the northward movement of the Indo-Australian Plate over a stationary hotspot so the oldest guyots were the first formed and most northerly as the plate moved northward at a rate of 6 cm per year (see plate tectonics).
Basalts & calcarenite
                                                                         

Two periods of volcanic activity produced the major features of the island, the first about 6.9 million years ago produced the northern and central hills while the younger and highly eroded Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird were produced about 6.3 million years ago by successive basalt (an extrusive igneous rock) lava flows that once filled a large volcanic caldera (crater) and can now be seen as horizontal basalt strata on mountain cliffs (at Malabar and Mt Gower) occasionally interspersed with dikes (vertical lava intrusions). Geological pyroclastic remnants of volcanic eruption can be seen on Roach Island (where the oldest rocks occur) and Boat Harbour as tuff (ash), breccia (with angular blocks), and agglomerate (rounded 'bombs'). Offshore on the Lord Howe Rise water depths reach 2000 mtres falling to 4000 metres to the west of the rise. From the dimensions of the rock on which the island stands it has been calculated that the island has eroded to one fortieth of its original size.
                                                             
                                                                                                                               

Rocks and land at the foot of these mountains is calcarenite, a coral sand, blown inland during the 
Pleistocene between 100,000 and 20,000 years ago and cemented into stratified layers by water percolation. In this rock are fossils of bird bones and eggs, land and marine snails and the extinct endemic Horned Turtle (Meiolania platyceps) now thought to be an ancient relictual non-swimming tortoise with relatives in South America. The crescent of the island protects a coral reef and lagoon, the barrier reef, at 31° S, is the most southerly in the world although there are more southerly occurrences of coral. Beach sands, rather than consisting of quartz grains derived from granite, as on the mainland, are made of fragments of shell, coral and coralline algae, together with basalt grains, and basaltic minerals like black diopside, and green olivine. The lowland consists of alluvial soils.
                                                                                             

                                                                 

                                                                 
                                                                       
                                                                      

                                                                     

The island continues to erode rapidly and is expected to be fully submerged within 200,000 years taking an appearance akin to the Middleton and Elizabeth Reefs.

Balls Pyramid is a sheer and pointed rocky islet located 23 km (14 mi) south of Lord Howe Island, and also the remnant of an eroded volcano.

Climate

Lord Howe Island has a subtropical climate. In general the summers are mild or warm with rainfall erratic but occasionally heavy while in winter it is cool with rainfall more or less uniform. There is a gradual transition from summer to winter conditions and vice versa. Winds are frequent and salt-laden being moderate easterlies in the summer and fresh to strong westerlies in the winter. August is the windiest month and there are only about four or five completely still days each year. Rainfall records are maintained in the north where rainfall is less than in the frequently cloud–shrouded mountains of the south. There can be wide variation in rainfall from year to year. July and August are the coldest months with an average of about 13°C and no frost. Average maximum temperatures range from between 17C and 20C in the winter to between 24°C and 27°C in the summer. Average minimum temperatures range from between 12C and 15C in the winter to between 18°C and 22°C in the summer. The humidity averages in the 60% to 70% range year round becoming more noticeable on warmer summer days than in the cooler winter months. Although the Island has a reasonably high rainfall, with an annual average and median of about 1600mm, the driest months are from November to February. The highest temperature ever recorded is 29.5°C and the lowest 6°C. Tropical cyclones do not occur at this latitude but their fading remnants can bring heavy rain and strong winds.

Plants

 Lord Howe island is a distinct terrestrial ecoregion known as the Lord Howe Island subtropical forests. It is part of the Australasia ecozone and shares many biotic affinities with Australia, New Guinea, and New Caledonia. Almost half of the island's native plants are endemic and many of the islands unique plants grow on or around the mountain summits where the height has allowed the development of a true cloud forest and many different microhabitats from sealevel to the summits. One of the best known is Howea, an endemic genus of palms (Arecaceae) that are commonly known as kentia palms and make handsome houseplants. Several million are exported annually providing the only major industry on the island apart from tourism.
                                                                             
Origin

In geological terms at 7 million years old Lord Howe Island is relatively young and was never part of any continent, its flora and fauna colonizing the island from across the sea, carried by wind, water or birds, possibly assisted at a geological time when other islands were exposed, acting as stepping stones. Island plants are similar to those of Norfolk Island, the two islands sharing some endemic species, the combined flora of these two islands being more closely related to that of New Zealand and New Caledonia than to that of Australia. There is also a small but clear link with the plants of Vanuatu. Closest mainland affinities are with the vegetation of subtropical south-eastern Queensland. The high degree of endemism is emphasised by the presence of five endemic genera: Negria, Lordhowea, Howea, Lepidorrhachis, and Hedyscepe. The critically endangered species of creeping vine Calystegia affinis has only been found on Lord Howe Island and Norfolk Island. A link with Gondwanaland is indicated by the presence of endemic species like the Wedding Lily (Dietes robinsoniana) whose only living relatives occur in South Africa.

The flora of the island is relatively untouched with a large number of rare plants, 44% being endemic to the island. With a diversity of conditions ranging from valleys, to ridges, plains and misty mountain tops there is habitat for a wide range of plant communities which have been comprehensively analysed and mapped. There are 57 species of fern of which 25 are endemic: they are most abundant in the moist environments of the southern island, especially the higher parts of Mount Gower, perhaps the most apparent being the four endemic tree ferns in the genus Cyathea that occur on the southern mountains.


Total Indigenous Endemic Naturalised
459 241 105(43,6%) 218 (47,5%)
                                                             
                                                                           

                                                                   

                                                                            
                                                    
                                                                                                                                                       
Communities & special plants

Plant communities have been classified into nine categories: lowland subtropical rainforest, submontane rainforest, cloud-forest and scrub, lowland swamp forest, mangrove scrub and seagrass, coastal scrub and cliff vegetation, inland scrub and herbland, offshore island vegetation, shoreline and beach vegetation, and disturbed vegetation.

Several plants are immediately evident to the visitor. Banyan (Ficus macrophylla subsp. columnaris) is a remarkable tree with a buttressed trunk and pendulous aerial roots: it can be seen on the track to Clear Place and near Ned's Beach. Pandanus Tree (Pandanus forsteri) has spectacular teepee-like prop roots and strange pineapple-like fruits that are orange-red when mature, the tough leaves being used for basketry; it occurs in damp areas like creek beds and fine specimens can be seen along the Boat Harbour track. There are ten species of orchid on the island, the most noticeable being the Bush Orchid (Dendrobium macropus) on lowland trees and rocks, bearing cream flowers from August to September. Other prominent flowering plants in the summer include, on the mountain slopes, the whiskery red flowers of Mountain Rose (Metrosideros nervulosa and Metrosideros sclerocarpa), the massed small yellow flowers of Corokia (Corokia carpoetoides), orange plump flowers of Pumpkin Tree (Negria rhabdothamnoides), and white spikes of Fitzgerald Tree (Dracophyllum fitzgeraldii). After heavy rain the endemic glowing mushrooms Mycena chlorophanos and Omphalotus nidiformis can be found in the palm forests.

One botanical curiosity is the Wedding Lily (Dietes robinsoniana) whose only relatives are found in southern Africa indicating a Gondwanan evolutionary heritage.
                                                                             
                                                                   
                                                                           
                                                                               
                                                                               

It is the palms that are the signature plants of the island landscape. All four species are endemic to the island and they often occur in dense pure stands, the one that has proved such a world-wide success as an indoor plant being the Kentia or Thatch Palm (Howea forsteriana); it is a lowland palm with drooping leaflets and seed branches in 'hands' of 3-5 while the Curly Palm (Howea belmoreana), which occurs on slightly higher ground, has upwardly directed leaflets and solitary 'hands'. Natural hybrids between these species occur on the island and there is a mature specimen of one growing in the island nursery. On the mountain sides higher than about 350 m there is the Big Mountain Palm (Hedyscepe canterburyana); it has large golf-ball-sized fruits while the Little Mountain Palm (Lepidorrhachis mooreana) has marble-sized fruits and is only found on the mountain summits.
                                                                               
                                                                

                                                                                                                                       
                                                                         
           
Animals
                                                                                                                                                       
A total of 202 different birds have been recorded on the island. Eighteen species of land birds breed on the island and there are many more migratory species that occur on the island and its adjacent islets, many so tame that is is possible to get quite close.

Fourteen species of seabirds breed on the island. Red-tailed Tropicbird|Red-tailed Tropic Birds (Phaethon rubricauda) can be seen in large numbers from Malabar cliffs where they perform acrobatic courting rituals. Between September and May thousands of Shearwaters (Mutton Birds) (Ardenna carneipes and Ardenna pacifica) return to the island at dusk each day. Petrels are regular visitors. From the Little Island Track between March and November one of the world’s rarest birds, the Providence Petrel (Pterodroma solandri) also performs courtship displays during winter breeding and it is so tame that it will climb into your lap. The island was its only breeding location for many years after the breeding colony on Norfolk Island was exterminated in the late 19th century.The Kermadec Petrel (Pterodroma neglecta) was discovered breeding on Mount Gower in 1914 by Roy Bell while collecting specimens for Gregory Mathews and the Black-winged Petrel (Pterodroma nigripennis) was only confirmed as a breeder in 1971; its numbers have increased following the elimination of feral cats from the island. The Flesh-footed Shearwater (Ardenna carneipes) which breeds in very large numbers in summer in early days had its chicks heavily harvested by the islanders for food. The Wedge-tailed (Ardenna pacifica) and Little Shearwaters (Puffinus assimilis) also breed on the island. Breeding White-bellied Storm-petrels (Fregetta grallaria) were another discovery by Roy Bell. Masked Boobies (Sula dactylatra tasmani) are the largest seabirds breeding on Lord Howe. Sooty terns (Onychoprion fuscatus) can be seen at Ned’s Beach; it is the most numerous of the island’s breeding seabirds and its eggs were formerly harvested for food while Masked boobies can be seen nesting and gliding along the sea cliffs at Mutton Bird Point all year round. The Lord Howe Island woodhen is a flightless endemic species saved from extinction by a local conservation.Common Noddy|Common Noddies (Anous stolidus) and Black Noddies (Anous minutus) build nests in trees and bushes, while the White Tern (Gygis alba) simply lays its single egg precariously in a slight depression on a tree branch, and the Grey Ternlet (Procelsterna cerulea) lays its egg in a cliff hollow.
                                                                                     
Species of landbirds that breed on the island group include three endemic passerine subspecies of the Lord Howe Golden Whistler (Pachycephala pectoralis contempta), Lord Howe Silvereye (Zosterops lateralis tephropleurus) and Lord Howe Currawong (Strepera graculina crissalis). The iconic endemic rail, the flightless Lord Howe Woodhen (Gallirallus sylvestris) is the only surviving member of its genus: its ancestors could fly but with no predators and plenty of food on the island this ability was lost. This made it easy prey to islanders and feral animals and by the 1970s the population was less than 30 birds. From 1978 to 1984 feral animals were removed and birds raised in captivity to be successfully reintroduced to the wild, the population now being safe and stable.
                                                                                                   
                                                               
                                                                 
                                                                            
                                                                   
                                                                 
Only one native mammal remains on the islands, the Large Forest Bat (Eptesicus sagittula), another endemic bat Nyctophilus howensis is known only from a skull and is now presumed extinct, possibly the result of predation by Masked Owls.

Reptiles and insects

Two terrestrial reptiles are native to the island group: the Lord Howe Island Skink and the Lord Howe Island Gecko. Both are rare on the main island but more common on smaller islands offshore. The Garden Skink (Lampropholis delicata) and the Bleating Tree Frog (Litoria dentata) have been accidentally introduced from the Australian mainland in recent years.

The Lord Howe Island stick insect (Dryococelus australis) disappeared from the main island soon after the introduction of rats. In 2001 a tiny population was discovered in a single (Melaleuca howeana) shrub on the slopes of Ball's Pyramid. Another endemic invertebrate, the Lord Howe Placostylus, has also been affected by the introduction of rats. Once common, the species is now endangered and a captive breeding program is under way to save the snail from extinction. Australian underwater photographer Neville Coleman has photographed various nudibranchs at Lord Howe Island.

Marine life


Marine environments are near-pristine with a mixtures of temperate, subtropical and tropical species derived from cool-temperate ocean currents in the winter and the warm East Australian Current, which flows from the Great Barrier Reef, in summer. Of the 490 fish species recorded 13 are endemic and 60% are tropical. The main angling fish are Kingfish (Seriola lalandii) and Bluefish (Girella cyanea) while game fish include marlin, tuna and giant kingfish called "greenbacks". Over 80 species of coral occur in the reefs surrounding the islands.
                                                                        
                                                                                                                                                  
                                                                      
                   
                                                      
Feral animals and plants
                                                                                                                                                       
Pigs and goats were released on the island as potential food in the early 1800s, the goats destroying shrubs and grasses used as nesting sites and the pigs eating eggs and chicks and disturbing land nuzzling for food. Several birds have become extinct since the arrival of humans on the island. The first round of extinctions included the Lord Howe Swamphen or White Gallinule, White-throated Pigeon, Red-crowned Parakeet and the Tasman Booby, which were eliminated by visitors and settlers during the nineteenth century either from overhunting for food or protection of crops. Black cats were released from provisioning whaling ships in the 1840s and mice from Norfolk Island in 1860. In 1918 the Black Rat was accidentally introduced with the shipwreck of the SS Makambo which ran aground at Ned's Beach. This triggered a second wave of extinctions, including the Vinous-tinted Thrush, Robust White-eye, Lord Howe Starling, Lord Howe Fantail and the Lord Howe Gerygone as well as the destruction of the native phasmid and decimation of palm fruits. Bounties were offered for rat and pig tails and 'ratting' became a popular pursuit. Subsequent poisoning programs have kept populations low. The Lord Howe Boobook may have become extinct through predation by, or competition with, the Tasmanian Masked Owls which were introduced in the 1920s in a failed attempt to control the rat population. Stray dogs are also a threat as they could harm the native wood hen and other birds.
                                                                         
Invasive plants like Crofton Weed (Eupatorium adenophorum) and Tiger Lily (Lilium formosum) occur in inaccessible areas and probably cannot be eradicated but others can be effectively checked. In 1995 the first major assault was made on the spreading introduced plants of the island, chiefly Ground Asparagus and Bridal Creeper, also Cherry Guava, Madeira Vine, Cotoneaster, Ochna and Cestrum. This was followed by many other weeding tours and the formation of the Friends of Lord Howe Island group in 2000. There was also encouragement for the removal of weeds from private properties and some revegetation of formerly cultivated areas. An Environmental Unit has now been created by the Board and it includes a Flora Management Officer and a permanent Weed Officer. Weed and Reforestation Strategies have been completed; weeds have been mapped and a rigorous eradication program is in place. This program is supported by improved education and quarantine procedures.

Despite a large number of introduced species that harm Lord Howe's native flora and fauna, feral pigs have recently been eliminated from the island, the goat population has been reduced to just a few animals, and there are ongoing efforts to control rats, mice, and introduced plants. A recovery program has restored the Lord Howe Woodhen numbers from only 20 in 1970 to approximately 200, not that distant from carrying capacity.

Climate change

According to an analysis by Tim Flannery, the ecosystem of Lord Howe Island is threatened by climate change and global warming, with the reefs at risk from rises in water temperature.The Great Barrier Reef is specifically identified as being at risk to the effects of global warming on Australia, and the same analysis applies to the reefs of Lord Howe Island. Cool climate flora and fauna would be at risk from rises in temperature, as those on or near the top of Mount Gower cannot migrate higher to stay within their preferred temperature range. Many bird species are also under constant threat in the island as a result of rats. The island's bird population has been significantly reduced by them and some species have already been wiped out because of rats introduced by the grounding of the SS Makambo. In 2011 the island, as an official event of the UNESCO International Year of Chemistry hosted the first international conference dedicated to the creation of a global artificial photosynthesis project.

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